Shopping List for How to Protect Plants for the Winter:
– 1/2-inch exterior-grade plywood, for sheathing the A-frame plant protector
– 2x4s, used to build frame for A-frame plant protector
– 1/4-inch x 3 1/2-inch galvanized carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts, used to assemble wooden A-frame plant cover
– small-diameter rope and cord, used to truss up plants
– 1 1/4-inch and 3-inch decking screws, for assembling and securing plant protectors
– metal-framed fabric plant tent with plastic tent stakes, used to protect plants
– burlap, used to protect rose bushes
– 1-inch-square wooden stakes, used to support burlap
Tools for How to Protect Plants for the Winter:
– small sledgehammer, used to pound in stakes
– drill/driver, for drilling holes and driving in screws
– portable circular saw, used to cut plywood, 2x4s and wooden stakes
– staple gun with 1/2-inch staples, used to secure the burlap to the wooden stakes
– utility knife, used to cut rope and cord
– 5/16-inch-diameter twist-drill bit, for boring holes for carriage bolts
Shopping List for How to Add Task Lighting to a Kitchen:
– Old-work recessed lights, used to replace existing ceiling fixtures
– Fluorescent task lights, for installation above and below the cabinets
– Junction boxes, used to house wire connections
– Armor-sheathed cable and cable connectors, used to power the new light fixtures
– Twist-on wire connectors, for joining the wires
– Interconnect cable
Tools List for How to Add Task Lighting to a Kitchen:
– Flat pry bar, used to remove old ceiling light fixtures
– Cordless drill and 3/4-inch-diameter hole saw, for drilling cable holes
– Drywall saw
– Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade, used to saw through hanger bar
– Wire strippers
– Oscillating multi-tool, used, if necessary, to trim the cabinet
Steps for How to Add Task Lighting to a Kitchen:
1. Turn off the power to the kitchen lights at the main electrical panel.
2. Disconnect the existing ceiling light fixtures and pry the electrical boxes from the ceiling.
3. Use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to saw through the old hanger bar, then bend the bar out of the way.
4. Take the template from the new recessed-light kit and hold it over the hole in the ceiling.
5. Trace around the template and then enlarge the hole with a drywall saw. Repeat for the other recessed light.
6. Run a length of armor-sheathed cable from one recessed fixture to the other. Be sure to use an approved cable connector to secure the cable to the box.
7. Make the wire connections inside the fixtures’ junction boxes using twist-on wire connectors.
8. Push the recessed fixtures up into the ceiling, then engage the pressure clips to lock the fixtures onto the ceiling.
9. To install over-cabinet lights, start by removing the switch plate and switch from the switch box on the wall.
10. Cut a small access hole in the wall above the upper cabinets to expose the metal wall stud.
11. Drill a 3/4-inch-diameter hole through the stud and through the wall directly above the upper cabinet.
12. Run a length of armor-sheathed cable from the top of the cabinet, through the hole in the stud, and down to the switch box on the wall.
13. Screw a junction box to the top of the cabinet and feed the end of the cable into the box. Use an approved cable connector to secure the cable.
14. Run a second cable from the junction box on top of the cabinet, down the wall, and to the underside of the cabinet.
15. Install a second junction box to the underside of the cabinet. Connect the lower end of the second cable to the under-cabinet box.
16. Screw metal mounting clips to the underside of the cabinet, directly behind the face frame, then snap on the fluorescent light fixtures.
17. Install one light fixture under each cabinet. Join the fixtures together with interconnect cables.
18. If necessary, use an oscillating multi-tool to cut away part of the cabinet to allow the cable to lie flat.
19. Repeat Steps 16 and 17 to install fluorescent light fixtures on top of the cabinets.
20. Reinstall the light switches and turn the power back on.
Shopping List for How to Cut and Install Foam Crown Molding:
– foam crown molding with installation clips
– painter’s tape, use to indicate the position of each wall-mounted clip
– 2-inch drywall screws, used to fasten installation clips to wall
– acrylic latex caulk, for sealing corner joints and gaps at ceiling
– cotton rag, used to wipe off excess caulk
Tools for How to Cut and Install Foam Crown Molding:
– drill/driver, for driving in screws
– power miter saw, used for cutting crown molding
– layout square, used for checking room corners
– bisecting adjustable square, used for transferring out-of-square room corners
– caulking gun, used to apply caulk
Shopping List for How to Build a Custom Fireplace Mantel:
– Poplar hardwood boards
– 1 1/2-inch-long pocket-hole screws
– Wood glue
– 3-inch screws, to fasten the mantel to the wall
– Wood putty, to fill nail and screw holes
– 120-grit sandpaper
– Primer and acrylic latex paint
Tools List for How to Build a Custom Fireplace Mantel:
– Canvas drop cloth, to protect the floor
– Cordless drill
– Miter saw
– Table saw
– Pocket-hole jig, to bore pocket holes
– Router with a rabbetting bit, to rabbet the back of the mantel
– Finishing nailer and air compressor
Steps for How to Build a Custom Fireplace Mantel:
1. Spread a canvas drop cloth onto the floor in front of the fireplace.
2. Cut three poplar boards to size to form the vertical pilasters and horizontal frieze of the fireplace mantel.
3. Join the boards together with glue and pocket screws.
4. Rout a rabbet into the back edges of the mantel so that it will overlap the wall tiles that surround the fireplace.
5. Cut a filler strip to fit behind each side of the mantel.
6. Glue and nail the filler strips to the back of the mantel.
7. Rip a narrow strip of poplar to trim out the top of each pilaster.
8. Glue and nail the trim to the mantel.
9. Use the circular saw to rip a poplar board to fit along the top of the mantel. This board will support the crown molding and mantel shelf.
10. Cut a poplar nailer strip and narrow trim piece to fit the length of the mantel, then fasten them to the mantel with glue and pocket screws.
11. Next, bevel-rip a 1×5 board to width to form the crown molding.
12. Cut a 45-degree miter into each end of the 1×5 crown.
13. Miter-cut a short return piece of 1×5 poplar to fit at each end of the crown.
14. Glue and nail the return pieces to the crown.
15. Glue and nail the crown to the nailer installed on the mantel.
16. Stand the mantel against the fireplace wall and secure it to the wall studs with 3-inch screws.
17. Cut a poplar shelf to fit across the top of the mantel, then nail the shelf to the nailer strip. Also nail at an angle up through the crown molding and into the underside of the mantel shelf.
18. Fill the nail and screw holes with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry overnight, then sand lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.
19. Finish by priming and painting the mantel.
Shopping List for How to Replace a Small Kitchen:
– Solid-surface counter and seaming epoxy, for new countertops
– New kitchen appliances, type and number as needed
– Silicone adhesive, used to secure new counter and backsplash
– Kitchen sink and faucet
– Range hood
– Plumber’s putty, for sealing faucet to counter
Tools for How to Replace a Small Kitchen:
– Pry bar, for removing old counters and backsplashes
– Assorted wrenches and pliers, for plumbing hookups
– Caulking gun, used to apply silicone adhesive
– Belt sander with assorted sanding belts, used to sand epoxy seam flush on counter
– Drill/driver with hole saw, for boring faucet holes in counter
– Putty knife, for applying seaming epoxy
– Clamps (or vacuum pump), used to draw closed countertop seams
Shopping List for How to Weatherstrip a Wood Door:
– Mechanical weather stripping, for sealing door in opening
– Flexible, push-in weather stripping, for sealing head and side jambs
– Tung oil used to seal routed groove
Tools for How to Weatherstrip a Wood Door:
– Hammer, used to remove and replace the hinge pins
– Router and straight bit, for cutting a groove into the bottom end of the door
– 3-inch paintbrush used to apply tung oil
Shopping List for How to Make a House-Shaped Cutting Board:
– 1 1/2-inch hardwood butcher block. Get a small corner section for a single block, or a longer length to make multiple boards.
– Butcher-block conditioner
– Restickable glue stick
– Medium and fin-grit sandpaper
Tools for How to Make a House-Shaped Cutting Board:
– Jigsaw with 6-tpi speed-cutting wood jigsaw blade
– Fine-tooth pull saw
– Wood rasp
– Wood file
– Sanding block
– Lint-free cloth