Shopping List for How to Frame Walls for a Basement Room:
– pressure-treated 2x4s, used as the bottom wall plates
– 2x4s, used as the top wall plates and studs
Tools for How to Frame Walls for a Basement Room:
– 2-foot and 6-foot levels
– chalk line
– circular saw
– layout square
– cordless framing nailer, or hammer and 16d nails
– powder-actuated nail gun
– hearing and eye protection
Tools for How to Safely Attach a Deck to a House:
– Circular saw
– Impact wrench
– Hammer drill with 1/2-inch-diameter masonry bit
Shopping list for How to Safely Attach a Deck to a House:
– 2x4s and 2x6s½-inch x 10-inch galvanized lag screws with washers
– ½-inch x 10-inch masonry wedge anchors
– Pressure-treated 2×4
– Engineered-lumber joist hangers
1/16” x 1 3/8” primed finger jointed base cap molding
23-gauge headless pin nails
Fine grit sandpaper
1×4 scrap wood for a gauge block
1. Measure the height of the space between the chair rail and the baseboard using a measuring tape.
2. The base cap molding frame should be centered all around the room. An easy way to measure, take two pieces of 1×4 and place them against the top of the baseboard and the bottom of the chair rail. The distance between the two blocks is a good height for the frame.
3. To get the horizontal measurements of the frame, measure the entire width of your wall. Divide the measurement up evenly and allow for spacing between each frame. Using a piece of 1×4 as a gauge block between each frame is a good way to separate the frames evenly.
4. To cut the vertical portion of the frames, set the stop on the outfeed of a miter saw and place the base cap molding just beyond the stop.
5. Set the miter saw to a 45-degree angle, hold the molding tight to the saw and make the first cut. Repeat the process for the necessary amount of vertical sides.
6. Reverse the angle of the miter saw to the opposite 45-degree angle.
7. Set the outfeed stop to desired length for the horizontal pieces, press the molding firmly against the miter saw and make a cut. Repeat the process for the necessary amount of horizontal sides.
8. Take two vertical molding sides and two horizontal molding sides and create a frame.
9. Use wood glue to connect each corner and a 23-gauge pin nail gun with headless pin nails to tack all of the connections together.
10. Be sure to remove any excess glue immediately with a rag. Repeat the process for the necessary amount of frames.
11. Let the frames dry for ten minutes.
12. Lay out the frames in place using a piece of 1×4 as a gauge block to set the spacing from the chair rail, the baseboard, and between each frame side by side.
13. Use wood glue and a 23-gauge pin nail gun with headless pin nails to tack up the molding frames to the wall.
14. To finish off the look of the frames, fill in any holes with wood filler. Then sand it down using a fine grit sandpaper.
15. If there are any imperfections between the inside and the outside of the frames in relation to the wall, fill in those gaps with caulking using a caulking gun.
16. Paint to desired color.
Tools for Beefing Up Attic Insulation:
– tape measure
– insulation knife
– leaf rake, used to spread cellulose insulation
– dust mask
– circular saw
Shopping List for Beefing Up Attic Insulation:
– cellulose insulation
– un-faced fiberglass insulation
– 2x10s for framing a storage platform
– 7/16-inch-thick OSB
– 16d nails”] for nailing together 2x10s
– 6d nails”] for nailing down the OSB
– 2-inch-thick polystyrene, used to cover subfloor
Tools for How to Replace a Window Sill:
– Oscillating tool
– Reciprocating saw
– Flat pry bar
– Hammer and 3/4-inch-wide chisel
– End nippers
– Circular saw
– Layout square
– Hand plane
– Random-orbit sander
– Caulk gun
– Dead-blow mallet
– Pneumatic finishing nailer
Shopping list for How to Replace a Window Sill:
– Spanish cedar, used to make new sill
– 3-inch screws, for pulling out old sill
– 120-grit sandpaper
– Spray primer, for coating new sill
– Silicone caulk, used to seal new sill into place
– 2-inch finish nails for pneumatic nailer
– Minimal-expansion foam, for filling void below sill
– Exterior-grade paint, to match existing window trim
Hydraulic home elevator lift
Home elevator enclosure
1. Pour concrete pad for the base of the elevator.
2. Hoist the tower section with a chain pull and level it in place with a level.
3. Stabilize the tower by attaching the legs with bolts and washers using a drill/driver.
4. Hoist the second section of the tower on top of the first portion with a chain pull.
5. The first and second sections of the tower are combined using bolts and washers.
6. Fill the reservoir for the hydraulics with transmission fluid.
7. Place platform base on top of the legs.
8. Secure the platform with bolts and washers using a drill/driver.
9. Place the floor on top of the platform and secure it with fasteners.
10. Secure 42-inch panels on three sides of the platform.
11. Install enclosure around the lift to keep out rain, snow and wind.